Furka, Salbit, Grimsel: Heart of Switzerland
Guided climbs in the Furka and Salbit area. Discover the best classic routes in central Switzerland
Trip Dates
Difficulty:
Accomodation:
simple: Hut / bunks
Superb and long alpine granite routes with shortish and straightforward approaches and no dodgy crevasses to negotiate. We could call it granite without hassle.
If that sounds tempting, it's worth having a look at the Grimsel-Furka-Salbit Area in central Switzerland. Almost unknown to climbers from afar, this alpine sport and trad-climbing gem holds a rich choice of mid to upper grade routes on excellent rock — the so-called Aare Granite. The climbing is mainly a mix of clean cracks and bolted friction slabs with, in general, reasonable protection. Thanks to the swiss-born "Plaisir"-philosophy, the belays consist of bombproof bolted anchors, which makes the climbing secure and very enjoyable.
In addition, the area is covered by a dense network of mountain passes, the Furka, Grimsel and Susten pass roads, that allow straightforward access to even high alpine routes. It is common for climbers to stay in the valley and do day trips whilst enjoying the benefits of staying in a hotel or campground.
By the way — did you know that the Salbit is mainly celebrated as home to the extraordinary West Ridge? It's one of the longest ridge routes in the Alps and with difficulties up to 6b (E2, 5.10c) no mean feat for accomplished climbers. If you feel confident to try this one, have a look here. It's little brother the South Ridge is (at 5c, HVS, 5.10-) good preparation and can well be part of our granite-week.
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Itinerary
We don't propose a fixed schedule here.
The programme can be adjusted to your climbing experience and specific goals. We'll be able to reach any climb within the region within 1 hour driving radius, which gives us great flexibility in the choice of routes and to adjust to bad weather.
A choice of recommended routes:
- Galenstock: Southwest Dihedral (400 m 5b HS 5.7)
- Gross Furkahorn: Southeast Ridge (500 m 4+ D 5.4)
- Graue Wand: Niedermann - Anderrüthi (350 m 5c+ HVS 5.9)
- Salbit: Southridge (450 m 5c HVS 5.9)
- Salbit: Twin Tower - Niedermann (350 m 5c+ HVS 5.9)
- Eldorado: Motörhead (400 m 6a+ E1 5.10a)
Getting There
The nearest Airports are Zürich or Bern. We are happy to try to pick you up at a convenient meeting point depending on where you are travelling from. We'll discuss the details of transportation with you.
Prerequisites
- good physical fitness: stamina for 10-hour alpine days;
- technical skills: confidence to quickly second in the French grade 5a to 6a in rock climbing shoes (US 5.6 to 5.10a, UK D to E1); proficiency in belaying and abseiling techniques.
Accommodation & Food
We can either stay in valley hotels, in mountain huts or even on campgrounds. The choice is there as most of the routes, including the longer ones, may be reached from the nearest road in a day.
Please don't hesitate to contact us in case of questions.
Gear
Alpine climbing kit. Rock climbing shoes, approach shoes or lightweight mountain boots depending on conditions.
Included
- Organization and guiding by an IFMGA licensed Mountain Guide
- Rental gear
- All guide's expenses
Excluded
- 6 x Night/Half board on mountain huts or basic hotels approx. 65 €/Night (alpine club members)
- staying on campgrounds is also possible
- Lunch and drinks at the huts. (Lunch for take away can be ordered the day before). Evening meals and breakfast in case we stay on campgrounds
- personal insurance covering mountain rescue.
Specials
for this trip
Flexibility: joint risk of bad (weather) conditions.
Flexibility is our working method - not a slick marketing slogan. We budget 1-2 extra days in the planning of many of our trips to factor in adverse weather conditions. The days can for example be used to move the trip a day or two as to use the best weather window for the summit bid.
Of course you only pay the actual guiding days. We'd rather achieve your goal than insist on doing a poor alternative.
Fairness first.
The job of mountain guides is demanding and highly responsible. Clearly, this work has to be appropriately remunerated. Yet we are climbers, not tough business men. That's why our emphasis is on dealing fairly with our clients.
We block dates for your trip. Sometimes the arranged climb still doesn't work out. We then appreciate your understanding that we cannot bear the cancellation risk alone. On the other hand we do understand that you don't want to pay the summit rate of a prestigious goal for an alternative destination. With open communication and consideration for each other's situation, we will find a good solution. The summit rate only applies if the conditions are right and we make a summit bid.
Why we do not show available places online.
Because you still wouldn't know if a trip is confirmed. Bookings can be cancelled after all. Besides, well, the displayed number of available places can be fake — we all know that from the flight search engines.
Don't panic if the minimum number of participants is not yet reached! We often try to directly address long term clients, bring together bookings for different dates or find alternatives. Maybe we are really keen on doing the trip ourselves and offer you a special deal. Anyway we are keeping you updated. You might tell us your deadline by which you have to know if the trip takes place or not.
